In the middle of the lower Chesapeake Bay, almost facing each other across the Maryland-Virginia state line, sit two centuries-old, remote, and threatened communities.
Both Smith Island, Maryland, and Tangier Island, Virginia, were first mapped by Captain John Smith in 1608. Welsh and English settlers mainly took to Smith, while natives from England’s West Country favored Tangier. Residents of both islands retain unique “relic dialects,” passed down from their ancestors and preserved by isolation. Watermen here have lived off the bay’s oysters, crabs, and fish for almost 200 years. Their family names resound throughout the islands: Evans and Tyler on Smith; Parks, Pruitt, and Crockett on Tangier.
Life here is slower and quieter than on the mainland. Even with regular ferries, these are secluded places: few stores, almost no cars, and no bars (both Tangier and Smith are dry). The islanders constitute a tough and independent lot: Tangier folks refused to join the Confederacy over slavery, while Rhodes Point village, on Smith Island, was once known as “Rogues Point” for area pirates who operated from there.
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6 comments:
Wow, National Geo is trying to sucker all of us with this article. The Islanders are the most friendly and cordial folks around when you come over on the ferry. The problems start when the locals realize after you have spent your money, that you did not go back on the ferry's return trip. I made the mistake of taking my wife and two young children over for an overnight to Smith Is. sometime back. Everyone was all smiles until we did not leave on the ferry. When we walked into the only restaurant for supper, all the locals seated near us picked up their plates and move into another room (and it was not a children issue). They had children as well. In fact, their children counted out loud as we entered the room "one, two, three, four strangers on the Island". That night our hotel (we were the only people staying) was buzzed all night long by ATV's. Needless to say, as I was leaving, I vowed to never spend another penny on this beautiful Island again. I respect their desire to not have their privacy destroyed by strangers and outsiders. But, the County Tourism Dept, National Geo, and one or two local businesses wanting to profit should not dupe tourists into thinking this is an overnight destination. It is a great day trip. At night the locals want their Island back. It is not fair for the Tourism promoters to say otherwise. Not fair to the visitors and not fair to the vast majority of locals.
Well, having had the exact opposite experience in Tylerton a few years back, I must say- It must be you!
I went to Tangier Island on an overnight excursion with the ex and another couple. The food in the restaurant wasn't all that. The people were actually kind of rude. Rode bikes right in front of us and expected us to get out of their way. No alcohol, had to bring our own. Had to walk from the dock to our place we were staying. On the internet the picture looked like a beautiful bed and breakfast. When we got their we were actually staying in what appeared to be a converted chicken house behind the nice house. No keys to lock the door. No internet, no cell phone reception. The residents were rude and I must say they were rude. I will never be going back to that hellhole again.
My family was from Tangier and still have relatives there. I have never seen tourists treated badly at all. I have always told friends when they have scheduled trips to stay more that one day and really get the feel and peace of a different life style. And when traveling over the years I was only to happy to explain any questions the tourists had and if asked make suggestions. A lot of tourists go back every year they have enjoyed their trips so much. I have never known or met a rude Islander ever, just a smile builds friendships,
We had out of state guests which were looking forward to our trip, but after arriving in Crisfield we were told the boat we had planned on taking us to Smith Island wasn't running that day, so we ended up taking the VERY crowded/noisy mailboat. After arriving on the island we hurried to our restaurant chosen from friends only to be told that they weren't opening that day due to the expected crowd not showing up due to the boat cancellation! We ended up eating at some shack a short distance from the restaurant we were looking forward to! NEVER AGAIN !!!!! Last trip there and to Crisfield !
p.s. This incident occurred in July !
Let me just clear up a few things that may make your trips better for you and the Islanders. This is not Ocean City or Atlantic City. Before you take a trip anywhere read up on it, what the experience may be. This is a dry island meaning no alcohol you will not see open containers of beer or restaurants with liquor licenses. Before you book rooms ask questions, if possible get pictures of the rooms available to you just like any reservations. The main restaurant mentioned on brochures is not all local seafood, it is more like any Sunday dinner in most homes. The little dives you mentioned are cheaper and it is mostly all seafood. There are no entertainment spots, movies etc. The watermen go to work at 3:00 am so the sidewalks basically are clear by 9:00 PM. It is a different way of life, this is the spot for peace and tranquility, reflection and getting back to basics. I hope this helps you make your decisions.
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